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In 1835, Costa Rica was not yet the peaceful nation we know today. The air smelled of café recién tostado, wet soil, and uncertainty. Four cities — Cartago, Heredia, Alajuela, and San José — argued like siblings over one inheritance: who should be the capital of this new country?

They all wanted the same thing — honor, poder, voz. And that desire lit the spark of a war that would decide the nation’s future.

Don Braulio Carrillo — The Man Who Said “Enough”

At the center stood Braulio Carrillo, a tall, serious man with calm eyes and quiet authority. He believed Costa Rica needed order — una nación fuerte. He read the old law again: la Ley de la Ambulancia, which required the capital to rotate between the four cities every few years. To him, it was madness. Every few years, the entire government — clerks, archives, wagons, even furniture — had to crawl over muddy mountains. Carrillo slammed the document onto his desk.

“A country that moves its capital like a circus,” he said, “will never move forward.”

He abolished the law. From that day on, San José would remain the capital — definitivamente. But in Cartago, people whispered, “¿Quién se cree este hombre?”

The Proud City — Cartago’s Broken Heart

Cartago had been the first capital, the old colonial jewel with its grand churches and cobbled streets. Its people wore pride like armor.

When they heard Carrillo’s decree, their café talk turned bitter. In the plaza, Don Nicolás Ulloa Soto, a man with a deep voice and noble bearing, climbed the church steps.

“Cartago will not kneel,” he told the crowd. “If the law dies in San José, it will live here!”

The people cheered. Flags waved. Messengers arrived from Heredia and Alajuela saying, “Estamos con ustedes.”

Thus was born La Liga de las Tres Ciudades — the League of the Three Cities. They called San José’s government arrogante. They raised militias, gathered muskets and machetes, and filled the air with the sound of drums and defiance.

The Young City — San José Stood Its Ground

In San José, word of the rebellion spread quickly. Merchants locked their shops, students joined militias, and women carried water and bandages to the cuarteles. Carrillo stood in the plaza, hat in hand, facing his people.

“We fight not against our brothers,” he said softly, “but for the future of Costa Rica.”

The city listened. Men dug trenches in Curridabat, piled stones along Cuesta de Moras, and guarded the hills of Ochomogo, the road that connected them to Cartago. The war had begun.


The Battle of Río Virilla — La Sangre del Valle

At dawn on October 28, 1835, the ligueros — men from Cartago, Heredia, and Alajuela — marched toward San José. Their boots sank into wet clay, and they carried their city flags with pride. From the hills, the josefinos watched them move like a dark wave across the valley. The first cannon fired. Smoke rolled over the fields. Horses reared, men shouted, and the air filled with the metallic scent of pólvora. By noon, the League’s line began to collapse. Carrillo’s troops, better trained and better led, pushed forward.

The Río Virilla ran red. When the smoke cleared, hundreds lay still. The dream of a moving capital — la ambulancia — had died there by the river.

The Quiet After the War

When the fighting ended, the League disintegrated. Cartago surrendered first, its church bells tolling in sorrow. Heredia and Alajuela soon followed. Carrillo did not celebrate. He walked through the muddy streets, passing faces he recognized — farmers, merchants, neighbors.


“No somos enemigos,” he murmured. “Somos el mismo pueblo.”

Some rebels were imprisoned. Francisco Roldán, who had surrendered a post to the rebels, was executed — a grim reminder of loyalty’s price. But in 1838, just three years later, the government declared amnistía general. Everyone was pardoned. Slowly, the wounds began to heal.

The Country That Chose Peace

After the Guerra de la Liga, Costa Rica changed. The people grew weary of brothers fighting brothers. They saw that pride could destroy as quickly as it could inspire. San José remained the capital — not merely by decree, but by destiny. And though no one realized it then, the war had planted something new in Costa Rican soil: a belief that power should come not from the sword, but from diálogo.

From that moment forward, Costa Rica would begin to build its identity as una tierra de paz, a land that learned from a war never to fight one again.

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